Leash Reactivity Training Class

Troubleshooting and Extra Credit Leash reactivity can be tied to more global behavior problems that need to be addressed before the training can be considered successful. These concepts can also be the key to taking a leash reactivity routine that feels like a bandaid solution to truly feeling like the “problem” is “solved.” Many of these things have an obvious relationship with one another. Pulling on Leash and Overall Poor Leash Handling Skills A dog who is used to yanking their owner around and pulling towards what they want is going to be more prone to getting frustrated about not being allowed to move toward a dog that they want to get to. Additionally, proper leash handling and being able to forcefully move a training dog away from a problem scenario make a huge difference when episodes of reactivity do happen. Solution: Train leash skills separately from leash reactivity drills. In my experience, leash walking is the skill that having a professional coach you in live time is most helpful for, because it is such a dynamic exercise where it is also so easy to develop bad habits. Gear A dog who is further triggered by the sensation of tightness in their gear (harness, collar) and a dog who has too much physical leverage with their current gear set up is going to have a harder time training for leash reactivity. Solution: I customize gear recommendations for every team I work with. Demanding Behavior A dog who barks at, paws at, jumps on the owner, throws “tantrums” etc., to get what they want frequently throughout the day is more likely to generalize that obnoxious behavior towards seeing another dog on leash. Solution: My exact training plan is going to differ from dog to dog, situation to situation. You definitely don’t want to reward these behaviors if they are causing problems, but the training sometimes also requires a well-timed interruptor or punishment to be effective. Overall Life Structure Does your dog instantly get every single thing that they want all day every day besides access to another dog that they see on leash? That could be a problem! Solution: Practice confinement exercises (crates, tethers, baby gates). Practice impulse control such as waiting at doors, waiting for food bowls, waiting to be invited on the couch. Practice structured calm such as place/go to your bed while you do something nearby that your dog would like to be involved in. Conditioned to Ignore Handler and Ignore Cues Picture this: You routinely talk to your dog or try to give your dog a command, without success, and now they think your voice is irrelevant and inconsequential. A new person or trainer takes a dog, and the dog magically responds, and this is the simple reason why: The dog is desensitized to the owner’s voice, but not the trainer’s. Solution: Good, thoughtful, and consistent training that is integrated throughout the dog’s entire day. No Motivation to Train Picture this: A dog is overweight with a bowl of untouched kibble on the floor, has access to any toy he could ever want from the toy bin, busts through your door without looking back at you when they go outside, and maybe even goes to daycare or a dog park where they go crazy with other dogs and never once think of a human. Guess what! That dog has little reason to give you the time of day. Maybe you’re their buddy, but they certainly don’t see you as in charge of any executive decisions. Solution: Establish a relationship where your dog does work for the good stuff in their life. The owner becomes the “facilitator” of the dog’s want and needs. General Anxiety, Fear, Confidence Issues A dog who is super uncomfortable in their own skin while outside, jumping at traffic noises and spooking at a bag blowing in the wind is more likely to have trouble with seeing other dogs on leash, as described in the “trigger stacking” section. Solution: I may “prescribe” a variety of confidence boosting exercises such as defensive handler drills (think variations on body blocking), problem solving games as simple as trick training that make the dog feel cool and brave, obstacle work that changes the way the dog uses their body to engage with the environment, and more. Counter-conditioning protocols for other triggers and phobias may be relevant. There are certainly some cases of global anxiety that I refer to a vet behaviorist to discuss treating the anxiety from a medical lens. (Sometimes it is hard for me to make this call upon first meeting a dog, and I often will bring up the subject after knowing them for awhile.) Health and Enrichment Double Disclaimer I said it earlier but I’ll say it again - a clean bill of health and fulfilling a dog’s biological needs are imperative for successful training. Social Skills Greeting, coexisting off leash, and playing with other dogs is sometimes part of our plan - particularly with young dogs and dogs whose confidence has room to grow. We work on “direct” social skills only with “helper dogs” that are trustworthy, socially skilled, and matched to the training dog’s temperament and needs. Click here for my guide on socializing dogs. Other Sometimes unique adjustments to handling scenarios and a dog’s life can make a big difference. If you can’t tell by the incredible length of this article, dog behavior can be complex!